Arisaig Provincial Park

We keep raving about the Provincial Parks. This one lies on Route 245 north of Antigonish, about one hour from our cabin. The park sits on top of a cliff with picnic and camping sites.

There are several hiking trails that lead through the woods down to the beach  You really can't get lost here; the park is just not that big. At one point, you're in the cool woods with glimpses of the water beyond and then you're out in the sun right on the beach.

This coast is unusual because it's made of shale. Here, you can see one of the small streams that cuts through the shale banks on the way to the ocean. The shale is known for fossils and it's pretty easy to find small samples in the loose rubble on the beach.

There's a lot about this place that reminds us of Skaneateles Lake in the Finger Lakes of central New York - the shale beaches, the crumbling slate banks, and the cold water. Except, this is the ocean as you can see.

 The park overlooks the port village of Arisaig, which you can see here with fishing boats, the restored lighthouse (serves ice cream cones) and the seafood plants.

The Tall & Small Cafe

Another favorite restaurant - strictly for lunch. This tiny hole-in-the-wall is located on the main drag (342 Main Street) in downtown Antigonish. This is definitely an earthy venue favoring natural ingredients.

The restaurant a favorite with college students and faculty, since St. Francis Xavier College is located nearby. Students bring laptops and sit in the window. There are also easy chairs and tables for 2 or 4. Be warned, however; this place is usually packed at lunch. Lee and I tend to go there later in the afternoon. The walls are lined with works from local artists.

   The Tall & Small specializes in vegetarian food, but you can get great sandwiches with turkey, ham, grilled cheese etc. as well as their own homemade soup and combos of both. We've eaten here a lot and never been disappointed.

Finish your meal with coffee and one of the original cookies or date bars. Having grown up with fig newtons in the States, I thought I'd died and gone to heaven when I tasted these. And they're healthy, right?

Fairmont Ridge Hiking Trail

The area north of Antigonish is often called "Little Cape Breton" for the height, escarpments, beautiful views of the ocean and the hiking trials. And it's less than an hour from our home. The Fairmont Ridge Hiking Trail is one of the best. The map on this board outlines a variety of hikes from 20 minutes to 3 hours.

 The trails climb through gentle hills lined with black spruce, white pine, maple and old-growth hemlock. (The Nova Scotian hemlocks have not experienced the diseases now ravaging New England stocks).

Despite the presence of many streams and ponds, there are very few bugs - unless you sit for a while! This is easy hiking, with wooden bridges, wide paths and even some benches along the way to rest and enjoy the view of the Antigonish Harbor.

The end of the trail leads back to Route 337 through wide fields of hay. Next time, we'll bring some friends and hike all the way to the top.




Here's a final look at one of the ponds along the trail, which was full of water thanks to the beaver dams.

Bette & Wallet

Lee and I went with some friends to a benefit concert with Bette & Wallet at the St. George Catholic Church on Cape George (north of Antigonish). Cape George is the "little Cape Breton" of the mainland - high mountains, dizzying coastal roads, and huge ocean expanses - and worth the trip all by itself.


MaryBeth (center) and Gabriel (left) did French, Acadian, Gaelic, Irish and Scottish songs - and sometimes blended them with rock music! Very talented musicians! They can play anything - accordian, fiddle, guitar, lute, banjo, mandolin.....



and the saw (see the man behind with the bent saw and the violin bow).....


and the suitcase!
What talent!